Sewing-machine for finishing buttonholes.



3 SHBET BSHEET 1.

G. A. DAHL & G. H. T. HAGELSTEIN. SEWING MACHINE FOR FINISHING BUTTONHOLES.

APPLICATION FILED 11iAY5, 1010.

' Patented Mar. 28, 1911.

Patented MarQ28, 1911.

3 SHEE TB BHBET 2- HPLIOATIQN nL'sn MAY 5, 1910.

N 1 E. T S L E A H. m H 0 & L H A D A 0 SEWING MAGHINE FOR IINISHIING BUTTONHOLES.

0. A. DA HL & c. H. T. HAGELSTEIN. SEWING MACHINE FOE FINISHING BU'ITONHOLES.

APPLICATION FILED-MATS, 1010.

Patented Mar; 28,1911

3 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

, To all whom "it may concern:

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

-CHABI.|ES A. DAHL, OF ROXBURY, AND CHRISTIAN HIT. HAGELSTEIN, OF DORGHESTER,

MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNORS TO THE BEECE BUTTON HOLE MACHINE COMPANY,

or nosron, mnssncnnsnrrs, A conronnrion or MAINE.

SEWING-MACHINE son rmrsnrne nnrronnonns- Specification of Letters Patent.

Lpplication filed May 5, 1910. Serial Not 559,630.

Be it known that we, CHARLES A. DAHL, a citizen of the United States,and resident of Roxbury, county of Suffolk, State" of Massachusetts, and whose post-oflice address is No. 16 Copeland street, Roxbury, Massachusetts, and CHRISTIAN H. TKHAGELSTEIN, a citizen of the United States, and resident of Dorchester, county of, Suffolk, State of Massachusetts, and whose post-oflice addressis No. 117 Park street, Dorchester, Massachusetts, have invented an Improvement 111 Sewing-Machines for Finishing Button-- holes, of which the following descri tion, in connection with the accom anying rawing, is a specification, like cliaracters on the drawing representing like parts. 1'

This invention has forits ob'ect the production of a sewing-machine or finishin buttonholes, of the type wherein the wort is 'bentso that the needle may enter and .its point emerge from the same side of the work to produce a blind stitch, such machines being particularly adapted for finishing buttonholc pieces for boots and shoes.

In sewingmachines of the type referred.

to the workis inter nittingly engagedand bent by a vibrating bender, and the eyc-- pointed needle is reciprocated longitudinally to enter and be withdrawn from 'thehcnd formed in the work, a lateral vibration being given to said needle on alternate thrusts in order to efiect the formation of the de'-' sired stitching which holds down the thru1nends and the'stay-cord, if used.

We have so constructed and arranged the various mechanisms in our presentinvention' that the machine can be run at a high-speed without interfering with the certainty and accuracy of the several mechanisms embodied therein, the motions of the different moving" parts being perfectly smooth and requiring a relatively small expenditure of power for the machine as a whole.

It isrw'ell' known that high speed in a machine tends to increase vibration or chattering of certain rapidly moving parts, with resultant loss in accuracy, an have guarded against such objectionable teatures by structural arrangements of such character that such vibrational or chattering action is practically eliminated.

the various novel features of our herein weinvention, to be hereinafter described in dotail, one of the most important isthe bendercarrier and its general-monst ruction and operation, whereby a positive, direct and smooth reciprocation is imparted to the bender so that the work. will be bent accu-- ratelyand effectively.

Another feature of importance is the needle-guide' and the means whereby it is sup ported so that "it'shall always be presented at the proper instant and in the correct posi- M ship.

he various novel features of our invention' will be fully described in the subjoined 's ecification and particularly pointed out in t e following claims.

.Figure 1 is a top plan view of a sewing machine for finishmg buttonholes, embody ing our present invention, the cover-plate and throat-plate being omitted, and with the bender carrier and presse r foot carrier broken off to show the-parts of the mecha nism which would otherwise-be hidden; Fig.

2 is a longitudinal section of the machine taken-on the line 2-2, Fig. 1; Fig. 3 is a transverse sectional detail of the benderbender-carrier, taken on the line 3-3, 'Fig. 2, looking toward the right; Fig. 4; is a transverse; section through the main frame on line 4,,4, Fig. 1, but showing in elevation the needle-reciprocating mechanism5'the.

connection between it and the shuttle to es cillate the latter, and the four-motion feed mechanism, a portion of the work being shown in section on the throat-plate and -bent for the reception of the needle; Fig.

mechanism, in successive positionsinterme- I I Q-i trated Figs. {t and 5; Figs-B and 9 are diate the pdsi tions of such ortion as illusactuating cam and the adjacent part of the cross-stallion.

35 therein for the reception of to'render inoperative the 01 65 upper face of a tail 16 separate views in side elevation of the yolre- I like followers which coiipcrate. with the actuand. its elongated cylindrical shank; Fig. 12 is a viewfl of the feed-cams which govern the operation of the mechanism for feeding the work, the main shaft being shown in In our present invention the eye-pointed needle is IGClPl'OCHtGCl longitudinally to enter transversely the bend formed intermittingly in the work, and as the needle path is parallel to the feed of the work said needle is vibrated or moved laterally in opposite di rect'ions at each alternate thrust, the reciprocation and lateral vibration of the needle being substantially the same as in United b'tates Patent No. 404,863 granted June 11,

1889 to John Reece, but the mechanism for effecting such needle movements are essentially different from the means shown in said patent. -While the four-motion type of feed mechanism herein employed is broadly old and well known certain struc tural details thereof are novel, so far as we are aware, and cooperate with other parts of the mechanism as a whole in increasing the speed of operation of the machine.

The bed-plate 1, Figs. 1, 2 and 4, is of suitable size and shape to sustain the operating parts of the machine, the top of said bed-plate havingan elongated opening 2 a suitable coverplate, not shown, and opposite seats 3, 3 near the front end of such opening receive the throat-plate, to be referred to. The main or driving shaft 4 extended longitudinally beneath" the bed-plate and supported in suitable bearings 5, 6 and 7, Figs. 1 and 2 is provided with a clutch device of any suitable charaoter and including a band-pulley 8, the operation of the clutch being con 'trolled by an arm 9 fixedly attached to a short roc -shaft 10 mounted in suitable bearings beneath the bed-plate,the clutch device herein illustrated being substantially such as forms the subject-matter of United States 5 0 Patent to Reece, N 0. 367,063, dated July 26,

1887. As such clutch device is not of our invention further description thereof is unnecessary beyond the statement that the pulley 8 runs loose on the shaft 4: except when the clutch is operation by elevation of the forward end of the arm 9. {The rockshaft 10'is returned to normal position by means of a spring 11 acting upon an arm 12 fast on the rock-shaft, to thereby open or tion of the driving shaft 4. Khu'b 13 loose on the rock-shaft has a rearwardly extended starting arm 14, Fig. 1, provided with an adwhich bears upon the rearwardly extended justable screw-stud 15 utch and stopmota.

1 presser-foot" 32 accommodatin from the hub of the clutclncon'trolling arm 9, so that when the arm 14 is pulled down, as by a link 17 operated by a foot-treadle, (not shown) the controlling arm 9 will be swung upward to set the clutch. Said hub 13 is provided with a short upturned and forwardly extended arm 18 yieldingly connected by springs 19 with a long arm 20 having its hub 21 fulcrumed on the rocloshaft 10 between the bearing for the latter and the; hub 13 mounted on the shaft, said arm 20 being located at one end of the base on whichthe bed-plate 1 is carried, and below the bedplate. When the starting arm 14 is depressed the arm 18 acts through the springs 19 to swing upward the arm 20, the front end-of which carries an upright, adjustable stud 22 provided with a check-nut 23, Fig. 2. Referring now to Figs. -l and 2, a heav horizontal and rather long rock-shaft 24 is mounted at right angles to and above the driving shaft 4:, in suitable bearings 25 beneath the bed-plate and forms a fulcrum for the hub 26 of a presser-foot carrier, "shown as acurved arm 27 overhanging the bedplate and rising through an opening 1 therein above the rock-shaft '24, the said carrier 27 having an extension 28 projecting from its hub above the bed-plate toward the right-hand side of the machine, Figs. 1 and 2, and provided with an enlargement 29 with which the stud 22 coiiperates. Wheh said stud is raised by the action of the starting arm lt the extension 28 rocks the hub 26 and thereby depresses the free end of the overhanging resser-foot carrier 27 as will be apparent, such free end of the carrier being shaped to present lateral cars 30 which provide bearings for the usual bar-31 of a Presser-foot 32, Figs. 2 and 4., the'presserfoot being held down upon the Work by a spring 33 acting upon a'collar 34 fast on the bar 31, as shown in Fig. 4:. The extension 28 is held against the stud 22 and also pulled down to lift the pressenfoot carrier 27bya spring 35, shown only in the plan view, Fig. 1, attached at its lower endto the bed-plate and at its upper end to a pin 36 on the carrier-extension 28, the spring acting -auto matically to lift the pressei' foot from the' work when theoperator-releases the starting arm 14:- lVe have provided adjustable means to limit the downward swing of the carrier 27, said means comprising a headed stop-screw 37 the shank of which passes through a hole in a horizontal ear 38 on the extension 28 and through the bed-plate into a suita le depending and threaded socket 39 beneat the. bed-plate, a set-screw 40 holding the s'to' -screw in ad usted posit-ion, Fig. 2. This a justment of the downward swing of the carrier enables us to accommodate work of various thicknesses very itself. to slight variations in thickness 0 anylgiven too accurately, the

piece of work and to the movements of the receiving groove and needle passage and not usual toothed, feed-bar through its spring In our present invention the bender-carrier is made substantially C-shaped, the upper and lower links 41, 42 thereof being formed integral with each otherand with a strong hub 43 which is secured by set-screw 44 on the rock-shaft 24, the lower limb 42 being located wholly beneath the bed-plate, see Fig. 2, and extending toward the stitch-forming mechanism at the left-hand side of the machine, the extremity of said limb having a lateral, flattened foot 45, Fig. 3, which serves as a follower for the bender-actuating cam 46, a sprin 47, 2, connecting the bottom of the fwd-plate, and the limb 42 maintaining the follower in engagement with said cam.

As shown in Fig. 3 the cam has a long dwell portion 46 to maintain the bender depressed upon the work during the penetration of the latter by the needle, the balance of the cam being shaped to impart a rapid oscillation to the bender-carrier between the periods of rest during which the needle enters and leaves the work. The free end of the upper limb 41 (which latter rises through the opening 1 in the bed-plate) is shaped to present an upright and elongated split hub or clamp 48 which receives the shank 49 of the bender 50, the shank being held securely in the clamp by suitable clamping-screws 51. The bender 50 is practically a prolongation of the shank, and tapered at its front and rear sides toward its lower extremity, which is transversely convexed, as shown in Fig. 4, to avoid injury to the work, the width of the blade-liketip of the bender being shown in Fig. 2, the bender in practice reciprocating in substantially vertical plane at right angles to the line of feed of J the work. The resser-foot 32 is cut away adjacent the tip ofthe bender to effectually clear it and preventany interference with the operation thereof, said bender acting ilpon the work adjacent to and at one side of the usual serrated or toothed feed-bar 52 4 supported and actuated by mechanism to he referred to hereinafter.

..The throat-plate 53, shown separately in Fig. 10, fits into the seats 3, 3 in the bedp'late and is slotted at 54 forthe feed bar 52,

. said throat-plate having a deep groove 55 therein. adjacent and at right angles to the slot, into. which groove the work is bent or pressed intermittingly by thebender 50, the groove being formed in a depending thickened portion 56 of the throat-plate provided with a flattened needle-passage 57 which intersects the walls of the groove. c'r'culan" hole 58in the bottom of the gr'bdve' 'r. irectly beneath the needle path traverses the depending'pa rt 56 of the throat-plate, the latter being quit' 'thin, but the described thickening thereoffprov'idesample depth for the workonly strengthens the plate very greatly-butalso supports it at the point subjected to' greatest strain, for the bottom of the thick 'ened part 56' rests upon a part 59 of the shuttle-case The reciprocating bender 50 and the grooved portion of the throat-plate cooperate to form the bend in the work preparatory to the entrance of the needlethereinto, and by mounting and actuating the bender as herein shown weget a very. direct, powerful and smooth motion, which canbe speeded up to a high rate,'say from 1600 to 2000 stitches per minute. The bender and bender-carrier operate as a unit and the motion of the cam 46 is transmitted directly to the bender through the bender-carrier, the shape of the latter above the bed-plate affording ample room for the manipulation of the work, as the limb 41 is very similar in shape to and is locatedbeside the presserfoot carrier 27. In fact these two carrier members and the extension 28, with" the pi'esser-foot and the-bender, are substantially the only parts of the mechanism exposed above the bed-plate of the machine.

.The part 59 of the shuttle-case is vertically drilled in alinement with the hole 58 in the 'throatplate, to form an elongated and rigid bearing for a long cylindrical shank 60, best shown in Fig. 2, which is shaped at its upper \end to form the needle-guide 61 having its'upper face 62 slightly beveled, as shown in Figs. 4 and 11. This needle-guide is raised and lowered" at suitable intervals, and when raised, its beveled face is just beneath the needle as it is moving forward to penetrate the bend in the work, to overcome any tendency on the part of the needle to be deflected downward from its proper path as its point i s abbut to enter the work, After the needle has entered the work, and while it is completing its longitudinal movement, the guide is moved away from the needle path by a retractingspring 63 surrounding the shank 60 between the bottom of the shuttle-case extension 59 and "the foot of a bracket 04 clamped on the shank, said bracket sliding upon the vertical face of the extension 59 when the needle guide is operated. The out-turned head 65 of the bracket carries an adjustable screw-stud 66 which rests upon a rocking follower 67 having a fixed fulcrum 68 and cooperating with the cam periphery of a disk 69 fast on the driving shaft 4, the screw-stud 66 providing for accurate adjustment of the needle-guide. Said disk has a wrist-pin 70 connected by a link 71 with a cross-head 72 longitudinally sl'idable on a horizontal guide-rod 73 fixed in the base of the main frame adjacent the stitch-forming mechanism, the rotation of disk 69 reciprocating the cross-head in parallelism with the direction of feed of the work. Depending-from the cross-head. is a jody P -i9 stud 7 1, Fig. 4, on which is the front end of V the latter embracing a pivot-stud 76 eccenthe means for i this type is-old, broadly,

. horizontally swinging particularly adapted trically mounted on and depending from a fork 7T fulcrumed on a stud 78 fixed in the bottom ofthe shuttlecase 79 at one sideof its center.

lVe have 80, Fig. l, of the well-known Singer type, said shuttle resting in the shuttle-case 79 and having its central spandle 81 ektended downward the case, as indicated in Fig. 4, whereinthe shuttle itself is omitted to avoid confusion. The spindle 81 has fixed to its lower 'end a radial arm stud 83 which art a nd not of our invention, but the mannor ot' 'connecting the shuttle adjuncts with effecting longitudinal reciprocation ofthe needle are new, so far aswe are aware, the oscillating type of shuttle being for high speed without the usepf gearing or'similar. devices.

-A yoke 84 is provided with bearingsSfi to loosely embrace and rock upon the guiderod 73, longitudinal movement of the yoke being prevented by a pin 86,Fig. 4, driven through one of said bearings and entering an annular groove 87 in the guide-rod. Said yoke sustains the horizontal and longitudinally reciprocating needle-bar 88 to which is secured the eye-pointed needle 89,

substantially as in the Reece Patent No. 494,863 previously referred to, and by means.

of a switch-cam 90 on the main "shaft 1, rocker 91 and link v92 the said yoke and ne'edlebar are vibrated laterally, as in said patent, the link being adjustably connected with a slotted arm 93 depending from the yoke. V

The work is fed in the direction of the longitudinal reciprocation of the needle, as

in the Reece patent above mentioned, and each descent of the bender 50 acts upon the work \V, Fig. 4, to form a bend therein in the groove 55 of the throat-plate, and'as the yoke 86L is vibrated laterally the needle will penetrate and pass through the bend in the work first at one and then at the other'side of the usual stay-cord, not herein delivery to the work being common in the art and themeans for such delivery of the cord form no part of our invention. At each forward stroke of'the, needle the needleguide 61 rises to guide the needle at the instant its point engages and penetrates the bend formed in the work, as will be understood. p H

The use of aneedle-guide in machines of but the construetion at the guide with an elongated shank or provided an oscillating shuttlethrough the hub-like bottom of 82 carrying a roller or other enters the slotted fork 77, the

shuttle and its connections with said fork, and theifork itself, being well known in the Vtudinalreciprocation of the ntent about its pivotal connection with} shown, its

supported by ,and vertically movable in a long and rigid hearing, as herein provided, insures a smooth and steady motion for the guide, absolutely necessary when the machine is run at high speed, for there is then no chance for the guide to chatter or vibrate laterally either when in operative position or during its movement toward and from such position. As shown in Fig. 2 the upper faceof the needle-guide is made wide enough to coopcrate properly with the needle irrespective of the lateral change in its path on alternate forward strokes.

Referring to Fig. 4: it will be seen that the cross-head 72 is reciprocated on the guiderod 73 between the bearings 85 of the needlebar yoke 8%, without interference therewith, said crosshead being positively connected with the needle-bar, as will now be described, to effect the longitudinal reciprocation thereof. A laterally extended collar 94: fast on the needle-bar is pivotally connected with one end of a short link 95, the other end of said link being pivotally connected with the freeend of a long, horizontally swinging arm or transmitter 96 fulcrumed at 97 onthe underside of the 0nd link 98 pivotally connected with transmitter at 99 extending rearward and being pivotally'connected at 100 with a boss 101 head reciprocates it swings the transmitter 96 about its fulcrum such swinging movement of the transmitter effecting longineedle-bar 88 with a stroke the cross-head,

by the short link 95, but slightly longer than that of in order to cotiperate properly with the shuttle. Thus the cross-headis the common actuator for the oscillating shuttle and for the longitudinally bed-plate 1, a secreciprocating needle, and

when the latter is vibrated laterally on alternatethrusts the link95 accommodates itself thereto by a slight lateral-swinging movethe transmitteg 96. In actual practice this lat eral movement of the needle-bar is so slight that no special means is required to take care of it, it being remembered. that as the needle-barreciprocates in the yoke84 there can be a small relative angular movement between such parts as the yoke is vibrated. The connection between the cross-head 72 and the "needle-bar gives a rapid reciprocatory movement to the latter with smoothaction irrespective of the speed at which the machine is run, tle are driven from the same prime mover or" actuator bydirect and positive connections the two stitch-forming members will'always and as the needle and shutto it a yoke-like follower102, shown sepa-' crates with one of thefeed-cams', as 103 faston the main shaftt, while'the. yoke'like' fol-1 lower 104, shown separately in Fig. 9, cooperates with the other feed-cam 105' fast on the main shaft, adjacent "to"or forming a' I leads be in propertiming with relation to each other.

,By reference to Fig. 2 it will be seen that the fulcrum 07 for the transmitter 90 is made quite long and of relatively large diameter, to not only minimize wear but also to provide a firm support or bearing upon "which the transmitter rocks and thereby prevent any tendency of the transmitter to swing out oftrue. It is important that the trans-, nutter-swing in a fixed path, not only for the smooth operation of the parts; connected therewith but also because thetransmitter acts through the link 98 and its pivotal connections to obviate any tendency of the crossshead to turn upon the guide-rod 73- as it. is reciprocatedthereupon.-

'Re'ferring to Fig. 1 the needle-thread t from a suitable source of supply through a guide t to a tension device and thence through. an eye in a take up lever t vibrated by a suitable cam 25 on the main sh'a ft, said thread passingfrom the take-up lever to'and around a guide 25 on the yoke 84 and about a pin 2! also on the yoke-and then to the eye ofthe needle 89, the threadguiding and controlling devices beingof construct on and not any suitable or usual of our 1nvent1on.-.

Referring now to the feed-motion for the i Work, the feed-bar '52 -has"fixed1y attached ra-telyin Fig. 8, which embraces and soa part of the cam 1 03, said cams being shown more clearly in Fig; 12, which illustrates them in the position shown in- Fig. 5. Cam

103 actsthrough its follower to elevate the ed+bar,52, as in Figs. 5 and 7, and to dein Figs. 4 and .6, and the cam 105 --ates to'eflectthe feed stroke of the fe'edbar toward the back of the machine, while cam: 103 merely operates to maintain said' feed-f be! elevated. The final 'quar ter revolution u acts. through follower to effect the .fore and. aft motionof the feed-bar. Dunn}; the quarter revolution of the :main she t from the osition shownin Fig. 4 to that shown in i'g. 6 the feed-bar is maintained depressed by cam 103 and it is moved to the right, by cam 105,v and on the next. uarter revolution to the position shown in [the cam 103 opera'testo elevate the feed- "r into position to engage and effect the neiit fee'dinovem'ent of the work to theleft, viewing-Fig. 4., or toward the back of the machine, earn 105 not acting during such quarter-revolution. 1 On the third quarterrevolution however, the termination of which is shown in Fig. 5,*the earn 105 oper.-

of the main shaft fromthe position shown in clearly-shown in Fig. 5,

I will not irrespective the Fig. 5 to that shown in Fig. 4 completes the feed cycle, cam 1-03 lowering the feed-bar away from the workwhile cam 105 is inactive so far as movement of the feed-bar is concerned. This cycle, broadly considered, is the familiar four-motion feed well known in thesewing-machine art, but the mechanism devisedby us isnovel in its particular structure and arrangement, so far as we are aware.

Thefollower 104 is fulcrumed on stud 106 on the'main shaft bearing 5 and its lower .portion is pivotally connected at 107 to a .link 108 extended toward the back of the naachine and pivotally connected at 109 to the'lever arm 110 fulcrumed at 111 to an car 112 of the main frame. Said lever arm has an upturned, slotted extension 113,

in which is adjustably mounted a stud. 11 1 on which is pivoted a frontwardly extended link 115 pivotally attached at.116 to upper part of the follower 102. The follower 102 can rise and fall in accordance with theposition ofit-s controlling cam 103 a suitable ear on the whether the lever 110 and its extension 113..

is in the position shown in Fig. at or in the posit-ion shown in Fig. 5, and the fore and aft movement of the feed-bar 52 is. effected, jby cam-1,05 acting. to swing its follower'104 ion-its fixed fulcrum 106. Such swinging movement of the follower is'transmitted by 'link 108 to the lever 110 and its extension to follower 102,""aiid as the latter is thereby moved bodily forward or backward the attached ,feed-bar .moves with it. "The length of the feed stroke is regulated ;by

'the stud 1'14, adjustment of the latter toward or from the'fixed fulcrum-stud 111 decrees ing, or increasing, of the feed-bar 52. I I

It will be observed that every movement of the feed-bar is respectively, the stroke eliminated, and all m'oveifecteid positively and it is at'all times under the control of-one' or the other of the actuating cams, lost-motion being practically .113, andfromft-he'latter through link 115 mg parts are so constructed and arranged thatthe operation of the feed mechanism vary in its precision or accuracy of the rate of speed at which- ,e machine is run. V ']1lhe operation of the machineas'a whole W1 goin description, taken in connection with rawings, the bender intermittingly en-' gaging and forming a transverse bend inthe bereadily understood from the fore-- work-prior to each thrust ofthe needle, the

latter bein lon itudinally reciprocated in proper timlng with relation to'the oscilla tions of the" shuttle, .and said needle 15 vibrated laterally on alternate thrusts The -bender-carrier and bender move as .a unit,

and the bender-carrier isprovided with a long, heavy hub which rocks on the shaft 24 as a fulcrum, said shaft being so mounted as to eliminate shaking or chattering when the apparatus is running at high "speed, thereby insuring an exact and smooth operation of the bender with reference to the parts of the stitch-formingmechanism, and

with a direct, positive transmission-of power from the bender-actuating cam through the,

bender-carrier bender, U

to, the urigidl'yi attached The bed-plate of the machine is smooth and unobstructed between the bender and :the baseof the npper, overhanginglimb of the,bender-carrier,:so that ample space is providedifor the manipulation of thework without any obstruction.

The var on s- 'ad] ustments 1 needlegi ide, Vstit ch -formin "devices, and

: {feed-motion are all locate at the stitch- Having ,fully i describe'd invention,

whatwej claim as new and desire to'se'cure 1 byLetters Patent is l 1. In a sewing-machine,-me ans to form bends in the Work, stitch-forming mecha- Y nism, including a horizontally-recipr0cating= 35 needle-bar having an attached eye-pointed needle to perietrate'the bends formed in the.

work on each forward stroke, a laterally vibrated support for the needle-bar, and a shuttle to cooperate with the needle, com: bined withan actuating member reciprocated in a fixed path,-: operating connec s between said member and the shuttle, to es, cillate the latter, a swinging transmitter operatively, connectedv with said" actuating member, and positive connections'between the transmitter and'the'needle-bar, to efiect horizontal reciprocation thereof while permitting lateral vibration of the,nee dle-bar supp'ort.

and laterally-vibrating, eye-pointed needle to penetrate the bends termed 1n the work on each-forward stroke, and a shuttle to cooperi ate with the needle, combined with an actuating member reciprocated in afixed path,-

= and said actuating member, toswing it, and

needle to' efl ect horizontal reciprocation 5 movement of the needle.

connections between-the transmitter and the thereof while "permitting lateral vibrational for the bender,

a sewing-machine, means to form bends in the work, stitch-forming mecha -t nism including a horizontally-reciprocating' 3. In a sewingmachine, means to form bends in the work, stitch-forming mechanlsm, including a horiZontally-reciprocating needle-bar having an attached eye-pointed needle to penetrate the bends formed in the work a laterally-vibrated yoke in which the need e-bar reciprocatcs, and an oscillating shuttle, combined with a fixed guide-rod parallel to the needle path, and on which sa d yoke rocks, a cross-head reciprocated on said guide-rod, adjustable connections: between the cross-head and shuttle to oscillate the latter, and separate, positive connections .between said'cross-head and the needle-bar to reciprocate the needle-bar in the yoke, such connections permitting lateral vibration of the yoke,

4. Ina sewing-machine, means to form .bends in the Work, stitch-forming mechanism, including a horizontally-reciprocating needle-bar havingjan attached eye-pointed needle to penetrate the bends formed in the .Work on each forward stroke, a laterally vibrated support for the needle-bar, and an oscillating shuttle, combined with a crosshead reciprocated in a fixed path, means, in eluding a link and;' a horizontally swinging arm, interposed between said cross-head and shuttle, to oscillate} the latter, an elongated transmitter fulcrumed to swing in a; horizontal path above the' cross-head, a. link connecting the latter and said transniitter, a laterally extended collar on the needle-bar, and a link pivotally connected with said collar and transmitter, to eflect horizontal reciprocation of the needle-bar while permitting lateral vibrational'movement thereof. 5. In a sewing-mjachine,'1neans to form bendsv in the work, stitch-forming mechanismQ-including a horizontally-reciprocating needle-bar having an attached eye-pointed needle to penetrate the bends; formed in the work on each .forward stroke, means to effect lateral vibration of the needle-bar on-alternate forward strokes, and an oscillating shuttle to cooperate with; the needle, combined with an actuating member reciproeated in a fixed Fpath below and parallel to thepatn of movement of the needle-bar, positive qperat- 'ing connections between said member and the "needle-bar to reciprocate the latter, said connections including a link laterally movable to accommodate the-lateral vibration o:t-, the

needle-bar, and independent and direct-act,

work on each-iforward'stroke, and a complernelital stitch-forming member to ,cooperate; with the needle, a vertically-movable needle-guide having an elongated shank, a fixed tubular 'bearing in' which said shank 'tersecting l is slidable longitudinally, and means to move said needle-guide in its bearing into operative engagement with the needle as its point is about to enter the bend formed in the work.

7. In a sewingmacliine,=means to form bends in the work, stitch-forming mecha' nism, including an eye-pointed needle adapted to penetrate the bend in the work on each forward stroke, and meansto reciprocate it,

a needle-guide having an elongated cylin drical shank, a fixed tubular bearing for and in which the shank -is movable longitudinally toward and from the needle path, a spring to retract the needle-guide, and positivel'y-acting means connected with the shank beyond the bearing, to move the guide into operative engagement with the'needleat 'a predetermined point in the forward Stroke thereof before it enters the bend in the 'work, the retracting spring for the needle guide being interposed between the connece tionw'ith its operating means and the bear- .8. In a sewing-machine, a throat-plate having a depending thickened portion provided with a groove and with an intersecting vertical hole, stitch-forming mechanism, including a needle horizontally reciprocatedf across the groove and above the hole in said thickened part'of the throat-p1ate',*a benderto bend the work intermittingly into said groove to .be penetrated by the needle on its forward stroke, a needle-guide having an elongated shank snugly fitting and longitudin'allymovable in thehole in thethickened portion'of the throat-plate and laterally sup; ported thereby against sidewise vibration,

said shank being extended below the thick-- 40 ened portion of the throat-plate, means connected with the lower end of theshankato,

'porary andiintermittingly depen 7111, the work, said means incl move itand said needle-guide in a straight path to bring said guide into operative' engagement with the needle as its .point is about to enter the bend formed in the work, and afixed lateral bearing for said shank coiip'erating therewith between the thick-- ened portion of the 'throat-.plate and the operating meansconnected with the lower, end of the shank.

-.-9. In a' sewing-machine, a throat-plate" havinga bending groove and a' depending, thickened portion provided with a hole in- .the groove, a Iixed partof the. machine having a hole registering with the hole in the throat-plate, and forming therewith-an elongated rigid bearing, a bender to bend thework intermittingly into the groove, a.horizontally-reciprocating "needle to cross the groove and penetrate the-bend in' the work,-a needle-guide having an, elongated shank longitudinally movable innnd extended below the rigid bearing, and means connected with the lower end of said shank to reciprocate it in the bearing, 'and move 13.---In a sewing-machu/Le; a bed pla te, a

the needle-guide into operative engagement with the needle on each forward stroke thereof.

10. In a sewing-machine, a throat-plate having a bending groove and a depending, TS thickened portion provided with a hole intersecting the groove, a fixed part-of thev machine having -a hole registering with the hole in the throat-plate and forming therewith an elongated, rigid bearing; a bender to bend the work intermittingly into the groove, a horizontally-reciprocating needle to cross the groove and penetrate the bend in the work, a beveled needleguidehaving an elongated shank longitudinally movable 1n and projecting below the rigid bearing, a spring to retract the needle-guide, and means connected with the projecting end of .its shank to elevate ,the same and move the needle-guideinto operativeenga gement with the needle on each forward thrust of the latter 11. In a sewing-machinaa bed-plate havng an opening therein, means to form bends intermittingly in-the work, including a ver- .tically movable'bender, a bendenrcarrier hav- 4 ing a curved arm passing through the opening in, the bed-plate and overhanging the latter, a connected curved lower arm beneath 1 the bed-plate, and a fulcrnmzshaft mounted beneath the bed-plate and- ;to which said arms are rigidly attached, the bender being clamped on the free end of Said ,0\-'-.erhangin-g arm, and an actuating cam co pera ng rectly with said lower arm i0 os-Z'll te the 10 0 bender-carrier. e p, -'12.- In a"sewing-malchie, a bed-plate ';having an opening therein, 1' cans to term tembends e drunred elow the bed-plate, the up'per limb of said bender-cars haped bender-carrier fr 1 rier passing through the opening iii the bedlate and haying its free end overhanging the free end of isaid limb to fixedly hold the bender substantially at right angles. to the bed-plate, 'the bender depending frpm the elamp,-and an actuating camcoiiperating with the lower limb I oscillate the same and effect reciprocation of the bender in substantially vertical path.

grooved bending member a C-shaped bender-carr neat-h the bed-plate,

n stained thereby, er fulcrumed beztnd aving the free end ,of its upper, longer limb overhanging said grooved member, a vertically movable bender fixedly inou-nt'edonjthe' free end of the said limb of the bender-carrier above and substanl 35 'tially at rightangle s to grooved mem- .ber,-an-d an actuatlngj cam mi5perat1ng-di-' rectly with the shorter, lower limbgof the z bender-carrier. beneath thebed-plate, to oscillate the bender-carrier and reciprocate the bend-forming; point, an upright clamp on the 1 10 of thebender-carrier to main drivingshaftbeneath '35.

I stationary bender" toward and from the stationary bending. member in a path substantially at right angles to it and the bed-plate.

.14. In a sewing-machine, a bedplate, a

bending'member sustained thereby and having a groove, a vertically movable bender to bend the work intermittingly into the groove, a Cshaped bendeucarrier, an elongated fulcrum shaft therefor beneath the bed-plate parallel to the direct-ion of feed of the work, the upper limb of the bendercarrier rising above and overhanging the bed plate and to which limb the said bender,

is clamped, and an actuating cam cooperating directly with the lower'limb of the bender-carrier beneath the bed-plate, to os-- cillate said bendcr-carrier. I

15. I11 a sewing-machine, a bed-plate having depending bearings and an opening between them, an elongated rock-shaft mounted in said bearings parallel to the direction of feed of the work, a C-shaped bender-carrier having a hub fixed on the said rock-shaft between the bearings, the upper limb of said bender-carrier rising through the opening and ovcrhangii'ig the bed-plate, a vertically movable bender fi'xedl y mounted on such upper limb, the lower limb extending beneath the bed-plate, an actuating cam cooperating directly with the lower limb to oscillate the bender-carrier, and a spring to maintain the l form bends in the work transverse to the lower limb in cooperation with the cam.

16. In a sewing-machine, a bod-plate, a it, a Cshaped bender-carrier, a rock-shaft on which it is fixed, said rock-shaft being located beneath the bed-plate at right anglesto the'driving shaft, the upper limb of the bender-carrier overhanging the; bed-plate and having an 40 attached bender, an actuating cam on the driving shaft. cooperating directly with the a lower limb, ofithe bender-carrier..to oscillate the same, a presser-foot, a carrier thereforfulcrumed on said rock-shaft, and manual ly controlled means to rock said carri or'lower the resser-foot. r

17, In a sewing-machine, a driving shaft provided with a manually controlled clutchdeviceto start and stop it, a C-shaped bender-ica rrier'having a vertically-movable bender fixedly mounted on its upper limb, an actuating cam onthe driving shaft co, 'jperat-' ing directly with the lower limb of the bender carrie'r to oscillate the latter, a ful- Y foot, .a carrier therefor fulcrumed on said" erum-s haft. for said bender-carrier, a presser-.

i shaft and having a lateral extension, yield-f fcoples or this patent may be obtained for -five cents each, by addressing Washington, D. 0.

ingly acting means to cooperate with said extension and operatively position the presseri foot when the clutch-device is set, and an adjustable stop cooperating with said extension to limit movement of the presser-foot when said yieldingly-acting means operate.

18. In a sewing-machine, stitch-forming mechanism, including a\ horizontally-recipneedle, intermittingly operating means to form bends in the work transverse to the on each forward thrust, a feed-block movable parallel to the path of the needle as it is reciprocated,two rotating feed-cams, a follower-yoke cooperating with one of said block, to raise and lower it, a follower-yoke fulcrum for said -last named follower-yoke,

ing said lever and the follower-yoke fixedly rocking of said lever imparts a fore and aft stroke to the feed-block, and a stationary fulcrum for the lever.

.- 19. In a sewing-machine, stitch-forming mechanism, including a horizontally-reciprocating and laterally vibrated eye-pointed needle, intermittingly operating means to needle-path, to be penetrated by the needle :on each forward thrust, and a main driving shaft to efiect the actuation of the stitchforming'mechanism and the bending means,

said follower, to raise'and lower the feedblock, a second follower having a stationary fulcrum, a cooperating cam on the driving shaft", to swing said last named follower, and connections between the two followers a fore and aft movement to the other follower and the attached feed-block.

In testimony whereof, wehave signed our i names to this specification,

*two'subscribing witnesses. I

tannins A. DAHL.

CHRISTIAN H; T. HAGELSTEIN? Witnesses: I

THOMAS J. CARTY, WM. H. MCLAUGHLIN.

theWGommissioner of Patents,

rocating and laterally vibrated eye-pointed needle-path,'to be penetrated by the'needlecams and fixedly connected with the feeds cooperating with the other cam, a stationary in the presence of' -a lever, a link connecting it and the lastnamed follower-yoke, a second link connect-- connected with the feed-block, whereby combined with a feed-block movable parallel to the path of the reciprocating needle,

follower fixedly connected with said block, a cam on the driving shaft cooperating with whereby swinging movement of one imparts. 

